







Time passes so quickly. As I look back over these past 3 months, I can’t help but compare our experience here to that of starting a new job. There’s always a period of adjustment and not knowing what to do, where things are, what type of schedules are already in play, and the list goes on. I walk through downtown Kodaikanal almost every day and I see the places we first visited recounting our confusion and amazement as we navigated this strange new place. The first restaurants we visited, the first walk around Kodai Lake, the first bank machine we used, the first store I shopped in (you can see how those last two things go hand in hand) and so on.
Life in India runs a a different pace than North America. They are definitely more event oriented than time oriented. Celebrations happen almost every weekend, and it always seems to be tea time. Interjection: I’ve drunk more tea in these past 3 months than I have in my entire life! But we’ve managed to find our stride as we have settled in to make Kodaikanal our home away from home. I love the pace here. I love the weather here. I love the friendly people here. I find myself even enjoying the afternoon monsoon rains. Schedules are formed around the predictable patterns of the rain and I have learned to never leave home without an umbrella.
Each day has held different challenges from going without power to finding somewhere that I can hook up to wifi. Someone told us that if you get to the end of a day when the weather, the wifi and the power have been steady, it’s been a good day.
So what have I been doing to fill my days? Weekly priorities are most often shopping issues. There is no store in Kodai where you will find everything you need under one roof. There are no Wal-Marts’ or Superstores. There are however hundreds of different outlets that specialize in anything that you may need. The main shopping street, Anna Salai, as a whole offers almost everything you find yourself needing and more. My personal weakness as I stroll down Anna is the clothing stores. I love the Indian fashions. They wear such beautiful fabrics and all their garments flow. But that’s a diversion from the priorities I wanted to share.
Groceries: Sunday market is the best time to purchase your grocery needs for the week. Other than doing the weekly market, we have found where to purchase fresh baked goods, meats, fruits, vegetables or hardware items. Some of the most prolific little shops have been discovered only by word of mouth.
Shopping for other stuff: My personal favourite store to hit to purchase things that I do not need nor will I ever need, is Danish Display. They sell everything from combs and brushes to giant brass elephants that serve no purpose at all but look fantastic!
We recently discovered a place to purchase television sets. Not that we are in the market for one, but simply discovering where to buy them is like finding a key to a locked door in a video game. BTW the sales people just stared at me when I asked them if they also sold X-Boxes. (I’ve been missing my little man from Minecraft and the 4 worlds that I have explored with him.)
The language: Most Indians speak some English so the language has not been too big of a barrier, but understanding street or town names as they talk is good to know. So many times in conversation I’ve just had to stare in silence at a complete loss to know how to respond. As they emphatically repeat a word that is 100% foreign to my ears, I can only respond with “I’m sorry but I don’t know what you’re saying”. I have to confess that there have been many times when I’ve imitated their expression or emotion and just smiled in agreement hoping there would be no questions asked that would reveal that I had no idea what was just said.
For comparison, when I would service someone’s piano and give them explanations as to what issues their piano had, I would often get that blank stare that was accompanied by a vacant grin. I know that expression so well, and I know it means that I need to change my communication style to laymen’s terms. I find myself so often in their shoes now as someone will try to communicate with me in Tamil English and they lose me completely. Sometimes they will go find someone whose English is better than theirs and the communication gap gets bridged.
We have enjoyed the beauty of India so much. Words do not describe, nor do pictures communicate the experience of being here. The mountains and valleys, the ocean, the wildlife and the countryside are unique. Palm trees, monkeys, bison are only the tip of the iceberg to what we have yet to see. Personally, I cannot leave India until I have seen an elephant! But we wake up every morning to the sight of a vast valley view that goes great with a cup of coffee and you certainly cannot complain about that!
Living Accommodations: When we first arrived here we had a hotel reservation for 4 nights. Trying to book anything on the internet will cost you much more than actually being here so we were hesitant to made any long term plans for a place to stay until we got here. After our hotel stay was finished, we enjoyed the hospitality of Kodai International School for a few weeks as they rented us one of their Alumni Cottages. It was great, but not a long term solution for us. It bought us time to make arrangements for the place we find ourselves now, Prospect House which is located right up the hill from Coaker’s Walk and Greenland Hostel. Our view of the valley from here is a treat every morning as my Facebook pictures have shown.
Transportation: We have 3 main options for getting around. 1 – A friend has loaned us the use of his scooter, 2 – Taxi, and 3 – Walking. Getting around by taxi is great as their charges are very affordable and they know where everything is. Aside from hitching a ride on the back of the scooter with Harold, I have been doing a ton of walking. We are only a 15 minute walk away from the main shopping areas in town. Everything is accessible and affordable.
A note about walking: Yes, I may have blurted out some words that my mother would not be very proud of as I have walked from point A to point B, but getting around by foot is not just a stroll in the park. Traffic with wheels trumps pedestrian traffic, so be ready to lunge for cover, or pick up your pace if you see congestion ahead. HORNS! AAAAAAH! So much unnecessary honking at me as a pedestrian!
The cows – I LOVE and HATE the cows. I love them when they saunter across the road where I need to cross, but that’s where my love ends. They can be obstacles that force pedestrians into traffic and they don’t care. They leave their calling cards randomly along the roadways and sidewalks. Open toed shoes are not the best option for footwear if you have a lot of walking to do. Just trust me on that.
Things you see on a 15 minute walk to town – Animals. You see dogs, cows, and monkeys mostly. There are many wild dogs around that walk the streets and have obviously been abused by pedestrian traffic as you will see them flinch when you pass them. So sad! The monkeys – hate the monkeys! But they usually keep their distance. Cows – aka traffic police. Enough said.
Also, a piece of advice for the new pedestrian to India – do not look for the source of running water if you hear it as you stroll through the country. Chances are that it is not a waterfall and well, some things just cannot be unseen.
Both Harold and I are enjoying our India experience so much. With his family history here, we have run into so many people who know the name Amstutz. We have met many former math students of Harold’s father, Ken. We have experienced a feeling of familiarity and home as we go through our weeks here. The Alumni department at the school has provided us with passes that allow us to come and go to the school as needed. Talk about a family history that paved the way for the next generation. We are proud of the name Amstutz and will never grow tired of life on this side of the world.
Kodaikanal attracts people from all over India, and Coaker’s Walk is a stop for every tou
rist that visits this area. We are fortunate to be living just outside the entrance to one end of this famous pathway. It’s a wonderful alternate route to walking into town as it offers a scenic detour for pedestrians. There are 2 huge benefits to taking this route – no cars, buses, scooters or trucks, and no cows.
It is a wide, red brick pathway that takes you around the edge of the mountain. It has an iron fence that lets you safely view the valley below without fear of tumbling down the cliff. There are food, clothing and trinket vendors along the walkway, and the halfway point has a scenic bump-out that extends over the valley that is equipped with telescopes.
I enjoy a quiet walk to town along this route almost every day, but those quiet walks don’t happen all that often. Waiting for things to calm down here would be comparable to hoping for a quiet stroll down Main Street, Banff. It could happen, but it is very rare.
There are many long weekends here in India,. It seems that almost every weekend marks some sort of Hindu or Muslim festival. That means that Coaker’s walk is always busy – especially on weekends.
Living here has made us feel like celebrities. Daily we are asked if we would mind having our pictures taken. It was kind of humorous at first, but then wiser voices guided us in how to handle all these requests. You have no idea who those people are and letting them take your picture could be a bad decision If they end up being in any trouble at all. We were told that Kodaikanal can be a great hide-away for people who might be in trouble with the law for various reasons, and the last thing you want is to have posed for a picture with them on their phone.
Warning was heeded. Even as I sit here writing this, (the old fashioned way: with pen and paper), two different people have asked me if they could take a picture with me. I have learned to graciously say no, but there is always the persistent photographer who tries to snap a picture without me noticing. That may happen more often than I realize as I am severely lacking peripheral vision, but at least I’m not looking like their best friend! In this day and age, how safe is it anyway to let a perfect stranger take your photo? (Third refusal just happened!)
On to other things. I love what I hear as I sit here writing. There is the constant conversations in Tamil or Hindi (I can’t tell), there is the sound of feet shuffling by and there are birds. Beyond that is a stillness that is rare. The odd horn honking disturbs the setting, but I’ll take this buffet of sounds any day.
The history of this place also draws me. Mom and Dad Amstutz spoke of Coaker’s walk so often. The Hospital where Harold was born is just up the hill behind me. I try to imagine what it looked like here 50 years ago when they would walk this pathway with baby Harold. Just being here now is such a treat.
I am prepared for my day in town – I’ve brought my shopping bag and my umbrella. My plan today is to hang out at the school for a while, then do some grocery shopping. Hopefully it can all happen before the afternoon monsoon rain hits, but we’ll see. Right now the sun is shining while the valley is filled with white clouds that obliterate the view below.
Time for a rant. While I was sitting here minding my own business, a group of men approached me. They were all nattering at me at the same time apparently trying to tell me their names – all at the same time. Then one fellow tried to impress me with his friends official title and job description. I was not so impressed. I was struggling to understand what they were saying! But I knew what was coming. They all wanted pictures with me. I said No, sorry, and some of them left graciously. But a couple of them stuck around trying to persuade me to change my mind. I still said no, but then in the face of my refusal, one guy stuck out his hand like I was supposed to shake it and look at the camera and smile. This just made me angry. I told him NO one more time while watching his buddy raise his cell phone ready to take a picture. I turned away to pick up my things, then just left. I don’t get it! I’m no celebrity! I’m just a middle-aged woman trying to write a blog in the middle of a foreign country. That brought my total of selfie requests to 5. It was definitely time to go.
Our life above the clouds on this mountain is so different from where we were just 2 months ago. What we’re seeing and experiencing is beyond what we could have imagined.
Thank you for your interest in taking this journey with us.
We are now at the 1 month mark of our time here in Kodai. It is hard to imagine trying to get to know this corner of the world in any less time than a month minimum.
Before coming here, I thought nothing of monkeys other than how adorable they can be. I have discovered otherwise in recent days. Our new home up in the hills is much closer to monkey habitat. They regularly hang around the 
roadsides waiting for naive tourists to get as close as they can and take pictures of them and maybe even toss them a banana. Bad idea. Never let them know you have food and definitely keep your distance.
My observation is that there is a whole clan of them that feed from the local garbage bin. I went to take the garbage out on Sunday afternoon. The contents of the plastic bag that I carried was full of food scraps. It even contained a couple of non-edible bananas. I walked to the end of the driveway to discover that I was being watched by a rather large monkey. I slowed my pace a little, not sure what to do. It was only one monkey so I slowly continued on my way. It followed me. I looked back over my shoulder and realized that this may turn into a confrontation. I picked up a stick and threw it in his direction. He backed off a little, then came close enough to grab for my bag while hissing at me (or growling – it was hard to tell). He was determined to get my bag. All I remember seeing is an angry little monkey face that was mostly scary looking teeth. Fortunately another person came by in the opposite direction and scared him off for me so I could continue on my way.
The garbage bin is just around the corner from our place. As I approached I realized that my monkey problems were not over. One little guy was intrigued by my bag and started to approach me. Again, I picked up a rock and threw it at him. He dodged the rock and ran up a post by the side of the road. Once it looked like he had no plans to come down, I continued. He looked pretty content just to sit on the top of the post and scratch his butt. (shaking my head and sighing).
I was almost to the garbage bin. As I got closer I saw that there had to be about a dozen monkeys all clambering around on the bin. They were inside and out – on top of, and around. There was no way I was going to get to throw my garbage in there without an incident. Again – passersby to the rescue. Two local guys saw my predicament and smiled. I asked them what I was supposed to do now?! They just told me to follow them. They walked quickly to the far side of the bin, and as they did, the monkeys scattered away. They instructed me to quickly toss my bag in the far side of the bin. Once the bag was out of my hands I was no longer a target. The two guys that helped me just went on their way and I turned back to go home. I know those monkeys enjoyed my contribution to their meal and the truth is, I’d much rather that they ripped apart the bag while it was in the bin rather than on my lawn.
Monkeys can also mess with the wiring of the house. A few days ago they were playing on the roof and somehow managed to disconnect our power. The power company had to come by the following day to repair the damage they had caused.
No. I do not hold the same opinion of monkeys now as I did a month ago. I’ve learned to respect the little beasts. Just a thought: What kind of a sick mind would actually come up with a game that claimed that nothing is more fun than a barrel of monkeys? Nothing is more scary than a garbage bin full of monkeys!
My adventures continue.
I am always relieved when I open my eyes in the morning and see daylight. It has taken awhile but it means I’ve changed my internal clock to India time.
By the time I got through the shower, the power had gone out. That ruled out toast for breakfast. Thank goodness for the gas stove top. I boiled some water to make coffee in the French press. After coffee with Harold on the back porch, I was off to do a little shopping. We are on our 3rd day in Prospect House and had come up with a short list of things that would help us feel more at home here. On my shopping list today were an electric kettle and a blender.
Stepping outside I was immediately overwhelmed by the smell of the fresh morning air after an evening of rain the day before. It’s a short walk from our front door to the entrance to Coakers Walk. It will cost me a whole 10 Rupees to take that route to town but I had all the time I needed so I pulled out my wallet and headed for the entrance booth. In Canadian dollars it’s a whole 20 cents, so I was not putting any shopping in jeopardy with this decision.
Coakers walk looks out over the valley and offers overwhelming vistas of the hills and valleys that lie below. Who would have ever thought that this could be a regular part of my daily schedule if I wanted. It’s only a short detour and less than 10 minutes later, I was at the other end of the trail with another 20 pictures on my phone.
I exited Coakers Walk onto the main road again where there are numerous vendors selling whatever you can imagine. I discovered from my walk yesterday that there was a vendor selling deep fried eggs. Talk about a convenient breakfast. I parted with another 40 rupees (78 cents) and purchased 2 for my walk to town.
I did not see the monkeys this morning. Yesterday they were having a wonderful time playing on the road and then running up the chain link fence next to the road when a car came honking around the corner towards them
This mornings entertainment was in the form of a large black and white cow helping itself to some deep fried treats of his own as he passed by a vendor with plates heaping with instant food for a passerby. The owner was not there in time to stop the cow from grabbing a mouthful of treats. He had come running at the cow and yelling as he got closer. I have no idea what he said because he was speaking Tamil, and the cow seemed unconcerned. It slowly sauntered on its way.
I arrived at Anna Street which is a main shopping strip for all of Kodai. It is less than a mile long and it is full of shops on both sides. Everything you want can be found in a store on Anna Street. The stores are all narrow and long, and several are housed under 1 roof that is often 2 or 3 stories high. Very few of the signs are in English so I can only choose which shops I need to visit by what I see as I walk by. There are a few store titles that are self explanatory such as Pastry Corner, or CHOCOLATES. I’ve walked this road many times since we got here and it’s starting to feel comfortably familiar to me. I see the same things every time I visit this stretch: sidewalk vendors with stacks of sweaters and sweatshirts, sellers hunched up next to a large variety of shoes that are paired up neatly and all polished to a shine in hopes of catching someones attention who needs shoes; there are flower vendors selling strings of jasmine by the foot, street food vendors, there are people carrying massive bundles on their heads weaving their way through parked cars, motorcycles and other pedestrians and there are cows.
“The poor will always be among us” John 12:8. They are always well represented on the busy streets in hopes of finding a compassionate soul who will give them a handout. Today as I looked for the kitchen appliance store, a white cane caught my eye and the sound of loose change in a tin cup drew me closer. A young man with a white cane was standing along the roadside next to a girl who was probably close to his age who was also blind. They stood there accepting any donations from people who they could hear walking all around them. Immediately heartbroken for these 2 young people, I reached for my wallet and handed them both some paper money, giving them a compassionate warm handhold before continuing on my way.
I found the store I was looking for. As I walked in I looked down the narrow and cluttered aisles to see silver pots and pans of all kinds. It was easy to locate exactly what I wanted so I didn’t need to spend much time in the store. The hot pot, (electric kettle) cost me less than $10, and the blender put me back about $50, but I was happy to buy them both so I could be on my way.
The language is definitely a barrier in a lot of these stores. If there is no one around who speaks English, someone will go find a someone else who knows slightly more than they do. My Tamil vocabulary consists of 2 words, “Hello”, and “thank you”. I must work on that.
As I was leaving the store I received a text from Harold warning me about a large Bison that had just walked through our yard and was making its way towards the road where I would be coming home. The Bison are large and intimidating animals that could do a lot of harm if provoked. Avoid them at all costs according to the locals. I left for home with my eyes peeled for a bison sighting on the way.
The Bison had long gone by the time I got home, and the power was still out so Harold and I sat on the back porch drinking tea and comparing our morning notes while we waited for the power to come back on again. I had planned to do a load or two of laundry, but it was looking like that was not going to happen.
While we sat there, the afternoon monsoon rain started up. We listened to the rain and watched the clouds obliterate the valley. What else do you do when the power is out and the weather forbids any hiking/shopping/exploring of any kind? I went to my room and laid down for an hour or so. I had barely begun my rest when I heard someone knocking on the front door. Hoping that Harold would hear it and respond, I ignored it. He didn’t hear it as he was still out on the back porch, and the knocking continued. I went to answer the door and was greeted by 3 women in sari’s wanting to discuss firewood. This would have been a possibility if I understood anything they were saying, but all I could guess is that this discussion had something to do with firewood. It has only been 3 days since we moved into this place, I am clueless to know the firewood protocol for our house. Not knowing what I didn’t know, I tried to communicate that I would contact the man in charge and have him make arrangements for firewood. This prompted a rather lengthy discussion amongst the 3 women. Again – I have NO IDEA what they were saying so I could be neither flattered or offended. In hind sight, I may have made a mistake. If they were going to supply us with a load of firewood, that would be fantastic, but again, I don’t know! After our failed attempt at a conversation, they left and I went back to my afternoon rest.
Supper this evening was simple and easy. Domino’s Pizza (again). Still working on how to source the kind of food that we would like to prepare for ourselves. The pizza was great. It tasted like home.
After supper we had arranged a Skype call with Harold’s Dad and May. It was so fun to connect with them again and get more background from Dad about some of the things we were seeing, and some of the people we were meeting. Everyday gives us a little more information on a period in Harold’s parents’ lives that we never knew.
This is not a typical day yet. We have yet to know what a typical day looks like. This was a fun day that felt very much like a vacation day. Tomorrow will include some time spent with a local piano technician. He is excited about the opportunity for me to teach him how to tune aurally and improve his technical skills. Tomorrow is another day. Every day is a new adventure.